The discerning drinker: Rhoneing around in winter

10 April 2012

We're now at that stage where everyone's thoroughly fed up with winter but spring is still a long way off. What better wines to fortify us than Rhône reds - although not necessarily from the Rhône. For there's new global interest in grenache - last summer saw the first ever international conference dedicated to the grape - while syrah goes from strength to strength in the new world. Indeed, one can spend many happy hours "Rhôneing around the world", to plagiarise the title of a good current promotion on this theme at Harrods (they've got some nice whites too).

Borsao Selección Barrica 2007, Campo de Borja (Harrods, reduced to £8.50 until Feb 28).
Garnacha (aka grenache) is the star in a few corners of Spain, including Aragón's slightly obscure Campo de Borja, south-east of Rioja. This one is packed with bright, sweet fruit, warm and with an attractive (but not overdone) slug of oak.

Val Colombe Syrah, IGP Pays d'Oc (Jeroboams, £7.25).
In the Languedoc, syrah is traditionally used as part of red blends rather than on its own, Rhône style. This ripe, spicy, brambly example shows how well it can stand alone.

Tamaya Syrah Reserva 2009, Limarí Valley (Oddbins, £9.99).
Chile's northerly wine areas now produce impressive syrah in a Rhône style, like this one: earthy, brambly, solid acidity yet rich and smooth.

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah, 2008, Hawkes Bay (The Wine Society, £14.95: mail order only, thewinesociety.com).
Trinity Hill's John Hancock is a Kiwi pioneer for syrah: I was blown away by some of the ones he brought to London last autumn. This is one of his more affordable cuvées: big, with sweet fruit (eight per cent viognier, in fact) but still in a cool, structured, Rhône-ish style.

Juan Gil Monastrell 2008, Jumilla (Harrods, reduced to £12.95 until Feb 28)
Monastrell, aka mourvèdre, from the baking southern Spanish area of Jumilla can often be a bit jammy for my taste but this impressive one is beautifully balanced - bright, powerful and long.

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