The discerning drinker: Lighter Loire wines
At the huge Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting of 2009 clarets in London earlier this month, one of the characteristics of this great vintage was clear: high alcohol levels.
While some of the 2009 St Emilions especially are pretty beefy - up to 15 per cent - there's nothing really new in this: alcohol levels around the world have been rising steadily for the past few decades, mainly because of climate change and warmer weather producing riper grapes. Twenty-five years ago, 12 per cent was still normal. Now the average must be around 13.5 per cent and 14.5 per cent is unremarkable, at least for reds.
But how much stronger are they really? A huge US study earlier this year, testing 129,000 wines from around the world, found that well over half were stronger than the label said - by an average of half of one per cent. Partly, researchers found, this is because winemakers were deliberately mis-stating alcohol levels.
Added to this, in Britain wine labels have to state the alcohol in units of 0.5 per cent, with a margin or error of 0.5 per cent. In other words, if you buy a wine whose label says it's 13.5 per cent, it could really be nearer 14.5.
The only way to avoid this, if it bothers you, is to aim for significantly less alcoholic wines.
There are fairly few reds around under 13 per cent these days, though more whites are still lower than that. And what better cool region to look for lighter whites than the Loire?
La Grille Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Touraine (Waitrose, £7.99)
Juicy Loire sauvignon banc, this is bright and fuller than some, brimming with gooseberry and citrus fruit (12 per cent alcohol).
Roc de l'Abbaye 2010, Sancerre (Sainsbury's, £15.99 reduced to £12.99 until 16 Nov; 25 per cent off that, ie £9.74, until midnight on Tues 1 Nov when you buy any six bottles)
This Sancerre from Loire star Florian Mollet is good value while reduced and a steal on this week's six-bottle offer at Sainsbury's (you get 10 per cent off if you buy four bottles, 25 per cent off with six). Classic flinty, mineral Sancerre crisp and with a brisk acidity (12.5 per cent alcohol).
Domaine de Bellivière "Prémices" 2009, Jasnières (Wine Society, mail order only from thewinesociety.com, £16)
Some way north of Tours, Jasnières is one the Loire's most northerly and obscure appellations; these chenin blancs are rarely seen in the UK (or in France for that matter). This is crisp, bright, pure and beautifully focussed, with just a hint of sweetness (12.5 per cent alcohol).
Domaine de l'Aujardière "La Noë" 2010, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Lea & Sandeman, £11.50 or £10.25 as part of a mixed case of 12)
Muscadet has a ragged reputation after years of overproduction, but standards have improved significantly over the past decade. This example from a single small vineyard shows just how good it can be: stony, citrus fruit, very subtle, crisp yet with a slight creamy roundness (12 per cent alcohol).
