Tart London: how to make scotch eggs

Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison on the joy of Scotch eggs: the perfect snack for picnic season

No one throws picnics better than we do. And when we say ‘we’, we mean Londoners. All it takes is a glimmer of sunshine to throw us into a whirlwind of planning and preparation. Picnics are a celebration: a celebration of good weather, good food and drink, good friends – and good times.

Scotch eggs are the ultimate picnic food. We love them any time (when slightly hungover on a Saturday, few things are more joyous than a Scotch egg at the pub – The Sands End in Fulham does fantastic ones). But there’s something especially satisfying about unpacking a batch as you settle down to dine al fresco; not only do they stay intact in a way few other foods do, but they always get a good reception.

This recipe is perfect for a picnic. The trick for a really good Scotch egg is having a runny yolk, which can be difficult. You have to be careful when peeling the egg and wrapping it in the meat mixture not to pop it; we tend to cook a few extra eggs just to be on the safe side. Though they may be a little fiddly, you can make them a day or two before and keep them in the fridge, ready to go.

Accompanied by spicy ketchup and piccalilli, they could easily be a meal in themselves. Though if you want to push the boat out — which we usually do when it comes to picnics — you could serve them alongside a chilled soup such as gazpacho, chipolata sausages with honey and wholegrain mustard, some hummus and crudités and a cheese board. They’re guaranteed to be the highlight of the day.

Scotch eggs

Ingredients ( serves 8)

8 best quality, free-range eggs

600g best quality minced pork

Handful of herbs, such as chives, parsley, tarragon and sage, chopped

1 clove garlic, finely grated

1 tsp English mustard

1 tsp fennel seeds

Pinch of nutmeg, freshly grated

Salt and pepper to taste

1 egg, whisked for coating

Plain flour, for dusting

Panko breadcrumbs

Vegetable/groundnut oil

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Method

First, soft boil the eggs by cooking them in boiling water for 5 minutes; then put them straight into cold water, peel and leave to the side.

Heat a pan over a medium heat and dry roast the fennel seeds – for about 2 minutes, until you can start to smell the aroma – then take off the heat and grind with a pestle and mortar.

In a bowl, mix together the mince, herbs, garlic, mustard, ground fennel seeds and nutmeg. Season, and divide the mixture into 8 balls.

Put the whisked egg in one bowl, the flour in another and the breadcrumbs in a third.

Lay a piece of cling film on your work surface and dust with flour. Place one of the meatballs on the cling film, then place a piece of cling film on top. Roll the meat till big enough to cover a whole egg, then remove the top layer of cling film.

Place an egg in the middle of the rolled meat, then wrap the meat around the egg, using the cling film to help. Remove the cling film, making sure the egg is fully covered. Dip in the beaten egg, then the flour, then the breadcrumbs.

Fill a large frying pan about a third full of oil and heat over a medium to hot heat. Add the eggs so they sizzle. Cook for about 5-7 minutes, turning them so they are golden and crisp all over, then drain on kitchen towel.

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