50 reasons to love South London

 
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Barnyard restaurants, riotous ballrooms and an extra-large helping of bohemian bonhomie. Who said there’s nothing going on south of the river?

1 The London Bridge Quarter

London Bridge

(the-shard.com)

As Renzo Piano’s 310m Shard nears completion, all glimmering glass in the April sun, we can’t wait to zoom up to the viewing platform on the 72nd floor for a wobbly-legged vista of our sprawling capital. We’re also keeping a keen eye on the London Bridge Quarter in the Shard’s shadow, with a piazza and an underground mall, which we hope will be buzzing with hip boutiques and slick bars.

2 Colin Firth

Wandsworth

We have it on good authority that our number one bumbling sexpot, Mr Colin Firth, is moving to a new pad in Wandsworth, near Mark Owen. The possibility that Col might one day fall into the pond on the Common and emerge dripping wet is reason enough to get leafy SW18 on to our morning jog route.

3 The Rivoli Ballroom

Lewisham

350 Brockley Road, SE4 (therivoli.co.uk)

One of the most spectacular original interiors in London, The Rivoli is a 1950s' dance hall preserved to perfection. The main ballroom boasts red velvet, gold walls and sparkling chandeliers, and the Lounge Bar has the air of a speakeasy. It’s known for its retro dance parties but is also a popular location for music videos and private gigs – The White Stripes and Kings of Leon have raised its barrelled roof so it must be cool.

4 Zucca

Bermondsey

184 Bermondsey Street, SE1 (zuccalondon.com)

Have you been to Zucca, one of our notoriously hard-to-please reviewer Grace Dent’s favourite restaurants yet? No? That’s because it’s nigh-on impossible to get a table at this modern Italian on Bermondsey Street. It’s so damn good that Jay Jopling’s made it his de facto canteen – his White Cube gallery (see No 36) is next door.

5 Ovalhouse Theatre

Kennington

52-54 Kennington Oval, SE11 (ovalhouse.com)

A cutting-edge theatre and arts centre that lives up to its radical roots in the experimental drama of the 1970s and 1980s; the artistic policy is ‘new work for new audiences’. As well as two theatre spaces showing fringe theatre and an art gallery there’s a relaxing café with a book swap.

6 St David Coffee House

Forest Hill

5 David’s Road, SE23 (stdavidcoffeehouse.co.uk)

This charming wisteria-clad café is the perfect place to while away a Sunday afternoon. The walls are lined with well-thumbed books, including some old copies of The Beano. It runs a book exchange, only plays vinyl music, sells handmade cards and exhibits the work of local artists as well as serving up hearty soups, sandwiches and salads. We defy you to find anywhere cuter this side of the Cotswolds.

7 The Balham Bowls Club

Balham

7-9 Ramsden Road, SW12 (balhambowls club.com)

You can’t bowl here, and it’s more of a pub than club but it is a cosy, quirky place for a post-work tipple. The 1950s furnishings and jaunty bunting hung across the ceiling create a fun, retro vibe and the food (French onion soup, Welsh rarebit, spicy chicken wings) is spot on for the surroundings.

8 Bread Bread

Brixton

Bridget Hugo, 39, bakery founder

Why did you open Bread Bread?

I wanted to showcase the products we were producing for Franco Manca, my restaurant, and selling at our shop Wild Caper in Brixton Market.

What’s so special about a wood oven?

The bread crust comes out beautifully developed – you can get the most out of the dough. It’s like alchemy.

Most exciting part of the job?

I like to get my hands dirty and it’s satisfying to create new products. I’ve just come up with a sourdough brioche.

Biggest challenge?

The hours, you have to be a bit crazy to be a baker. It’s night work, very fast-paced and you need to be constantly multitasking.

What’s so great about Brixton Market?

There’s a real workshop mentality because originally it was rent-free. That fostered a community of hard-working individuals who wanted to make the market work as a foodie destination.

Favourite stall?

The Thai because it’s reliably good.

What’s your star loaf?

The Vollkorn, a rye recipe from Germany. Our version is balanced and delicious.

What’s next?

I’m interested in producing more tarts and puddings; we already do a great sourdough doughnut.

Milkwood Road, SE24 (breadbread.co.uk)

9 The Glassworks

Kennington

Paul Cochrane, 30, photographer

What is The Glassworks?

It’s an atelier of artists and creative businesses, with a great ping-pong table.

What’s the best thing about working in South London?

Having the Beefeater Gin factory across the road.

Most exciting part of your job?

People pay me to use my camera. That and the interaction with people.

What’s your project ‘Kennington’ about?

It is a series of impromptu portraits taken on the street, a snapshot of Kennington.

Describe South London in three words…

Wide-open space.

1C Montford Place, Kennington Green, SE11 (theglassworks.co.uk)

10 LASSCO

Bermondsey

Millstream Road, SE1 (lassco.co.uk)

Think of Ikea and then think of its antithesis. This architectural salvage shop, opposite St John’s latest opening, is about as far removed as you can get from the Scandinavian megastore in terms of interior tastes and shopping experience. Rummage through the resurrected stock including grand marble baths, endless Victorian radiators and wrought-iron door knockers.

11 Frank’s Café and Campari Bar

Peckham

10th Floor, Peckham multistorey car park, 95A Rye Lane, SE15 (frankscafe.org.uk)

This café/bar ‘pops up’ again atop Peckham’s multistorey car park from 30 June. The stunning sunset views across London are best appreciated with a Campari and soda in hand, and make the schlep up to the 10th floor worth it.

12 Parakeets

There are many theories about how there came to be such a huge parakeet population in South London (were they really released by Jimi Hendrix in the 1960s?), but the bright green birds are a cheery sight in parks from Greenwich to Brixton to Richmond.

13 The Good Companion

Herne Hill

27-29 Norwood Road, SE24 (thegood companion.co.uk)

This family-run Herne Hill shop sells quirky homewares collected by the owners on trips to Brazil and Africa. The walls are decorated with colourful family art (also on sale) and there’s an in-house upholsterer.

14 The Sea Cow

East Dulwich

37 Lordship Lane, SE22 (theseacow.co.uk)

We can’t prove it, but the fish and chips at this Lordship Lane institution definitely feel good for you. It’s the illusion of wholesomeness evoked by the beach hut-inspired interiors, the ethically sourced John Dory and the buff dads pushing Bugaboos as they await their Friday- night treat.

15 Vauxhall gay scene

(duckie.co.uk; eaglelondon.com; fireclub.co.uk)

Forget Soho, there’s something for every kind of gay guy or gal in Vauxhall Cross (and straight people love it, too – some call it ‘going on safari’). Discover performance art, dark drag and the ever perky Amy Lamé at The Royal Vauxhall Tavern’s arty Saturday night Duckie, the ‘polysexual cosmic’ vibes at Horse Meat Disco where you are guaranteed a sweaty dance with a hairy bear, or the less female-friendly Fire, a haven of topless males and those with more, um, exotic tastes.

16 The shop at Tate Modern

Southwark

Bankside, SE1 (tate.org.uk)

This is not your usual gallery shop, it’s one of the best places to buy presents, with beautifully bound books, tea towels, colouring pencils, pillowcases – you name it, Tate’s got it. We just wish they’d make Olafur Eliasson’s Weather Project (who could forget that huge sun?) a permanent installation in the Turbine Hall.

17 Nunhead Cemetery

Linden Grove, SE15 (fonc.org.uk)

Goths and genealogists love this vast Victorian cemetery, one of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries in London, built on the city’s then-outskirts to alleviate overcrowding in small parish churchyards. Not-so-notable burials include Frederick Abel, co-inventor of cordite. Slightly spooky but wonderfully peaceful.

18 Cenci

West Norwood

American Dede Vaughn, 64, runs this vintage shop

How big is your stock?

We have over a million items.

When did you come to London?

We moved to a very small shop on Monmouth Street in 1985 and were there for 20 years. But passing trade couldn’t pay the overheads so we moved out here.

What are your bestsellers?

Anything from the 1950s is flying out the door, thanks to Mad Men. Underwear, peignoirs, all that stuff. We’ve recently sold a lot to the Royal Opera House for its production of Falstaff set in the 1950s.

Where does your stock come from?

Prato, outside of Florence, from factories that buy old clothes to recycle the fabric. I buy accessories from America.

Which decade would you live in if you could go back in time?

The 1960s. It was so colourful and was when, thanks to Mary Quant, clothing became youthful and people stopped dressing like their parents.

4 Nettlefold Place, SE27 (cenci.co.uk)

19 Scooterworks Café

Waterloo

132 Lower Marsh, SE1

Blink as you’re walking along Lower Marsh and you’ll miss this tiny Vespa workshop turned café and bar. It’s chaotic and unsophisticated, offers a limited selection of drinks and only takes cash, but with a tiny garden and live music it’s a whole lot of fun.

20 The East London Line

Modern, efficient and urban, you might feel more like you’re in Berlin than South London on the overground, which starts in Crystal Palace and takes you under the Thames to Shoreditch High Street in half an hour. A new spur is planned to open later this year to Peckham Rye and Denmark Hill. At last.

21 Bonnington Square Garden & Café

Vauxhall

1 Vauxhall Grove, SW8 (bonnington square garden.org.uk)

Created and maintained by local residents, it’s hard to imagine, as you sit amid the subtropical shrubs, that this pleasure garden was a Second World War bombsite and, until a few years ago, a derelict playground. Lap up the community spirit at the vegetarian and vegan café, run by a co-operative of chefs from around the world.

22 Design Museum

Bermondsey

28 Shad Thames, SE1 (designmuseum.org)

It won’t be staying South for much longer (it’s moving to Kensington in 2014) but for the time being, we’re still happy to trot along to Tower Bridge for the forthcoming Christian Louboutin exhibition (right, 1 May to 9 July), or simply to browse the permanent collection – where else are you going to see an AK47 up close?

23 South Bank

The focal point for artistic happenings such as this summer’s Festival of the World. It is also a great place to eat, drink and be cultural. Pause at the Espresso Bar at the National Theatre for a quick hit or Skylon for cocktails with a view – but the terrace upstairs is a cheaper option, you can take your drinks up in the lift from the ground floor. And not forgetting the Real Food Market every Friday to Sunday just behind the Royal Festival Hall: the paella from Jamon Jamon is sensational.

24 Good Taste Food and Drink

Crystal Palace

28 Westow Hill, SE19 (goodtaste-fd.co.uk)

The newest deli on the Triangle at Crystal Palace, Good Taste is a trove of artisan cheeses and charcuterie, largely sourced from British suppliers, with a few Continentals thrown in for good measure. There are also ciders and anything else you could conceivably need for a slap-up picnic on nearby Sydenham Hill.

25 The Vics

Waterloo

(oldvictheatre.com; oldvictunnels.com; youngvic.org)

As well as The Old Vic and its little sibling the Young Vic, be sure to discover The Old Vic Tunnels, a dark, damp, slightly creepy and defiantly off-the-wall art and performance space in the old railways arches beneath Waterloo Station, with a fantastic bar and an Edinburgh-festival vibe.

26 Surrey Docks Farm

Craig Morris, 22, head chef at Café Frizzante, Surrey Docks Farm, with Gary Jones, 51, general manager

Do the animals ever steal food from the kitchen?

They’re too scared. We sometimes get stray chickens in the café or cows wandering past the kitchen window.

Where do you source your produce?

As locally as possible: local suppliers and markets, as well as using the farm itself.

What’s the inspiration for your menu?

It’s whatever I fancy. At Christmas I went through a beef stew and casserole phase.

Why do you think the café and farm are so popular?

It’s great for kids to see how animals are reared and produce is grown. Then they see it cooked in the proper way, not the way McDonald’s does it.

What’s your speciality?

Right now I’m really enjoying pasta – ravioli, tortellini, pappardelle. Getting a nice, al dente pasta just right can be so rewarding.

Any animal escapees?

The adolescent goats can get very lively and jump the fences.

Most exciting part of the job?

Creating my own specials board every day, based on what I fancy.

Most challenging part of the job?

Dealing with the public. I’m a cook, not a maître d’.

(surreydocksfarm.org.uk; frizzanteltd.co.uk)

27 Camberwell College of Arts

(camberwell.arts.ac.uk)

Less pretentious than Central Saint Martins, less posh than Chelsea, Camberwell spawns serious art students. It’s current claim to fame may be that South London’s favourite wild child, Florence Welch (right), spent a year ‘experimenting’ on its foundation course but check out the summer degree show to see if you can spot the art world’s next big thing.

28 Philglas & Swiggot

Battersea

21 Northcote Road, SW11 (philglas- swiggot.com)

Oenophiles, this one’s for you. An indie wine merchant with welcoming, non-pushy and knowledgeable staff, and wide-ranging stock with plenty of exciting finds.

29 Pop-up Urban Physic Garden

Southwark

100 Union Street, SE1 (physicgarden.org.uk)

This hidden gem returns to SE1 this summer. It’s built by a collective of designers and alchemists who transform neglected spaces into gardens to promote the conservation of rare plants. Events include science walks and herbal workshops.

30 40 Maltby Street

Bermondsey

40 Maltby Street, SE1 (40maltbystreet.com)

We’ve made no secret of our admiration for Maltby Street ever since it first cocked a snook at nearby Borough Market. There’s no happier way to while away the weekend than wandering along the arches, tasting artisan cheeses (above right), fresh breads, perfect coffees and homemade ice creams. But our best moment is when we pull up a stool in this little wine bar for a glass of something special served up by some dishy young men. Yep, it’s our favourite way to spend a Saturday.

31 Lesnes Abbey

Bexley

Abbey Road, Abbey Wood

These 10th-century ruins are catnip to the historian but also to the idler. Constructed by Richard de Luci as an act of penance for his part in Henry II’s dispute with Thomas Becket (which ended in the archbishop’s murder), most of the buildings were pulled down in the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Today its walls are edged with grassy meadows, and it borders the Lesnes Abbey Wood, home to wild flowers such as figwort and bluebells.

32 The Brunswick House Café

Vauxhall

Jackson Boxer, 27, owner

How did you get started?

The café opened originally in spring 2010. I had about £1,000 saved in tips and my brother Frank came up with an equal amount from the first summer of his Campari bar in Peckham (see No 11). Two grand doesn’t go far, but it was enough to set ourselves up to make coffee, sandwiches and salads.

Do you think your location by Vauxhall Bridge roundabout puts people off?

I hope not, though the fact that it’s tricky to get to, and in such stark architectural contrast to the rest of the neighbourhood, makes arrival all the more glorious.

Most challenging part of the job?

When I’ve been up at the markets at 6am, got through a busy lunch and made it to 5pm when we have a staff meeting before a fully booked dinner service. But I never get tired of feeling that tired.

Is it true you only just installed an oven?

By last autumn we’d saved enough to build a kitchen. Before that I was cooking entirely on a couple of portable induction hobs with a small electric oven. It seems ludicrous in retrospect!

30 Wandsworth Road, SW8 (brunswickhousecafe.co.uk)

33 South London Gallery

Camberwell

65-67 Peckham Road, SE5 (southlondon gallery.org)

Founded in May 1891 ‘for the people of South London, open to the public free, and on Sundays’, this gallery has stayed true to its promise and exhibitions – five a year – are still free. There are also events and children’s activities. If you don’t dig modern art, drop in for the fab restaurant, No67.

34 Ganapati South Indian Kitchen

Peckham

38 Holly Grove, SE15 (ganapati restaurant.com)

One of Peckham’s growing collection of foodie hotspots, Ganapati is among the best South Indian restaurants in London. Order a thali – and remember that even on week nights, you’ll need to book.

35 One Tree Hill

Honor Oak Park

Beloved by Queen Elizabeth I, this hill is a gem with the best views in South East London, stretching from the Shard to Alexandra Palace.

36 White Cube

Bermondsey

144-152 Bermondsey Street, SE1 (whitecube.com)

Since it opened last October, White Cube’s largest outpost has been hot competition for Tate Modern, showcasing the work of artists, from Antony Gormley to Marc Quinn. Not bad for a former Recall depot.

37 Imperial War Museum

Lambeth

Lambeth Road, SE1 (iwm.org.uk)

Tanks, fighter planes, guns, spy kits, a good gift shop, a tasty café, and who could forget the Blitz simulator. What’s not to like?

38 Crystal Palace National Sports Centre

Ledrington Road, SE19 (gll.org)

Built in 1964, this uncompromising Brutalist building inspires love and hate in equal measure – it is a concrete beast but it houses brilliant facilities, including a 50m pool, and is set in a lovely park.

39 Adam Byatt

Clapham

40 Abbeville Road, SW4 (bistrounion.co.uk)

Byatt cut his teeth at Claridge’s, The Berkeley and The Square and brought his modern British cuisine to Clapham with Trinity (so good, so local, so easy on the wallet), and now the newly opened Bistro Union (above) on Abbeville Road serving radishes with smoked cod’s roe for £3, sardines for £1.50, ham and eggs for £6 and toad in the hole for £11. Yum.

40 Battersea Power Station

(battersea power station.com)

Call it an architectural icon or a white elephant but Battersea Power Station is in one serious identity crisis, having been a film set, hosted celeb parties and threatened to become a theme park. Now it’s up for sale again (for a reported £500 million). We love chugging past the woefully underused space on the way into Victoria and imagining what we’d do with it: sculpture gallery, ethical zoo, super-school, second home?

41 The Spread Eagle

Greenwich

(spreadeagle restaurant.co.uk)

Tucked away from the bustle of Greenwich, this old-school restaurant is jolly nice and jolly posh and offers an excellent French menu.

42 North Cross Road street market

East Dulwich

Where else could you drop a few hundred quid on a bespoke zinc table, pick up a vintage frock and grab a hot dog all in the space of 20 metres?

43 Wimbledon Village Stables

(wvstables.com)

These local stables behind the Dog & Fox pub in Wimbledon Village hire out well-trained steeds and will accompany you on hacks so you don’t get lost in the rambling acres of Wimbledon Common.

44 Brockley Market

Lewisham College car park, SE4

A small but perfectly formed farmer’s market: local produce, plenty of space to sit and share your purchases – and all considerably less expensive than some more westerly boroughs.

45 The Urban Art Fair

Brixton

(urbanart.co.uk)

This free art fair goes from strength to strength. This year’s event (14-15 July) will be bigger than ever, with local and international artists, graffiti and food.

46 Angels & Gypsies

Camberwell

Jose Raido, 36, hotel and restaurant general manager

Which dish makes people say ‘Olé’?

Our longhorn beef, served with black beans, quail’s egg and horseradish is excellent. Or the arroz negro: squid, black rice and squid ink.

Most exciting part of the job?

There’s a wonderful atmosphere, unusual, colourful, quirky.

Where do you source your ingredients?

Oval Farmer’s Market on a Saturday and Brixton Market on a Sunday. The only thing we import is the Spanish charcuterie from Salamanca.

How do you come up with your dishes?

Brainstorming with our chefs, using our grandmothers’ recipes and recalling memories of past dishes we’ve eaten.

33 Camberwell Church Street, SE5 (angelsandgypsies.com)

47 Horniman Museum

Forest Hill

100 London Road, SE23 (horniman.ac.uk)

Packed to the rafters with displays of stuffed animals, fish and preserved creatures of all kinds, this neo-Gothic building housing the collection of wandering Victorian naturalist John Horniman is one of London’s lesser-known gems. There are always new exhibitions arriving and the aquarium keeps children amused for hours.

48 The Royal Observatory

Greenwich

(rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory)

Brilliant for a day out, this small observatory and museum is a great introduction to the skies above us. Be sure to check out the collection of antique latitude and longitude measuring devices and the Greenwich Meridian line, too. From its hilltop perch you can also watch the paddocks being prepared for this summer’s Olympic equestrian events.

49 The Florence

Herne Hill

131-133 Dulwich Road, SE24 (020 7326 4987)

This bustling pub does a nice line in ales – try the Weasel, made on the premises – and on a sunny day, park yourself in the garden with a burger (veggie, beef or chicken) and a pint.

50 Myatt’s Fields Par

Camberwell

Cormont Road, SE5 (myattsfieldspark.info)

This listed Victorian park was spruced up in 2010 thanks to a £3 million renovation project. The bandstand hosts rappers, church choirs and African drummers in the summer and there are hours of fun to be had splashing about in the playground’s Water Play zone, which reopens next month.

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