Paris Fashion Week: Acne delivers a complex collection that pulls in the super-cool crowd

You can decipher a lot about a fashion label by surveying the outfits of those who hang around outside its show.

If Chanel pulls a chic crowd, Acne pulls a super cool one. Such is the draw of the achingly hip Swedish label whose grungy take on minimalism has won them a place in the hearts of fashion's most high-brow following and in the wardrobe of Tilda Swinton who watched their latest showcase - staged in Paris this afternoon- from the front-row.

Returning to the French capital following three seasons of showing in London, Acne unveiled a complex collection of designed in conjunction with artist Katerina Jebb and the Musee Galliera.

Toying with the notion of wearability, creative director Jonny Johansson sought to make the "invisible visible and the unwearable wearable". It was every bit as complex as it sounds. Dresses finished with long silk pockets which fell below the models knees were among the key pieces. Black jackets worn layered over long silk shirts were detailed with flashes of cracked pvc while wide leg trousers detailed with panels of silk demonstrated the label's determination to deconstruct some of the most commonly tried and tested codes.

The label's affiliation with the arts world was explored through a print motif created by Jebb using prints found in the Musee Galliera's archive. Trailing gowns in printed silk were among the show's highlights. A voluminous buffed leather biker jacket, set to go down a storm with "Acneites", also stood out.