Amanda Gorman to Marcus Rashford: the rise of the activist model

Inauguration stars Amanda Gorman and Ella Emhoff were signed to IMG last week, so is this a new age for the modelling industry, asks Jessica Benjamin?
Joe Biden Sworn In As 46th President Of The United States At U.S. Capitol Inauguration Ceremony
Amanda Gorman at Joe Biden’s inauguration ceremony
Getty Images
Jessica Benjamin2 February 2021

The modelling industry has come a long way since the ‘heroin chic’ of the 90s. To succeed in 2021, brands must be about more than cheekbones: 2021’s cover girls are activists and social justice luminaries.

Last week, star of the Biden inauguration and National Youth Poet Laureate Amanda Gorman was signed to IMG models, alongside Kamala Harris’s stylish step-daughter Ella Emhoff. The agency, which has Gigi and Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss on the books, snapped up the political duo after their viral success following the inauguration (and not just because of their stand-out outfits). 

Emhoff and Gorman are poster-children for the new generation of models that brands are clamouring for. 21 year-old Emhoff’s personal Instagram is a Gen Z haven of unshaven armpits, art-student creations and homemade crocheted clothes (as well as political messaging in favour of her stepmom). 22 year-old Gorman’s is a playbook for 21st century activism – from photos with Malala and Halima Aden, to #JusticeFor BreonnaTaylor posts. Gorman has been selected for one of entertainment’s biggest gigs: she’ll perform during the Superbowl half-time show this month (last year’s show, starring Shakira and J Lo had 103 million viewers).

Emhoff and Gorman are part of a growing generation of model citizens. Sports stars turned social campaigners Maro Itoje and Marcus Rashford have been picked up by Ralph Lauren and Burberry respectively, with Burberry pinning its hopes on its Rashford campaign to drive sales after a 40 per cent pre-Christmas slump. 

Meanwhile, Stella McCartney cast Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon alongside other ‘active activists’ to front her latest Adidas collection, dubbing the capsule an ‘ode to the world and the environment through the lens of the next generation.’ Naomi Osaka, 23 year-old tennis superstar and anti-police brutality and racial justice advocate, recently became the latest Louis Vuitton brand ambassador, with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière lauding her as ‘an exceptional woman who represents her generation and is also a role model for everyone.’

It’s no surprise that brands are looking to appeal to the younger generation. Gen Z now account for 40 per cent of global consumers, and have an estimated spending power of $143 billion. Gorman herself has already proven to be a marketing success; following the bright yellow Prada coat she wore to the inauguration, searches for ‘yellow coat’ increased by 1,328 per cent according to Lyst.

Marcus Rashford for Burberry
Burberry

Karsten Edwards, director of modelling agency iMM, agrees. ‘It’s important nowadays that agencies are seen to be actively supporting issues that impact the models they represent. Brands also realise that the message they project and their narrative around certain issues has a direct impact on sales with Generation Z...it’s hopefully a win-win for all concerned.’  

Cynics might see the new, woke era of activist models as a simple marketing ploy – but this marketing ploy might just be the wakeup call that the stale and stagnating fashion industry needs.

 

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