Wine Box: Down Argentina way
Puma tracks, S-shaped curves of rattlesnakes in sandy soil, a huge, hairy spider scurrying between the vines, and wasps by the thousand. This is wineland Latin-American style, or, at least, my recent memory of it. Argentina is the fifth largest wine-producing country in the world, yet, until now, it's been pretty naive.
It's big, and so is its potential. The Argentines have vast lands in the Andean foothills plus a huge spectrum of grape varieties. They can grow vines at just about any altitude, on widely differing soils, with huge climatic variations. Until now, levels of investment and skill have lagged behind their Chilean neighbours. But we're going to see a lot of vastly improved Argentinian wines on our shelves, and I think we're going to adore their huge, rich flavours and their value. There are bombastic reds and zippy, fruity whites, most at keen prices. Sample these and see what I mean.
Bodega Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Oddbins, Unwins, virginwines.com, £5.99). Norton makes good wines without much tinkering. Winemaker Jorge Riccitelli has a 'fruit first' policy which results in fine, authentic wines, as this red attests. It's a deep-ruby colour with aromas of black cherry and currant, and a rustic style with firm tannins. It has no added acidity and no oak ageing - just pure, simple, gutsy, Mendoza Cabernet. Perfect with a chunk of fillet steak. Also try Norton's sumptuous Malbec 1999 (Oddbins, Tesco, Unwins, £5.99), well-balanced Merlot 1999 (Oddbins, Virgin, £5.99), and top-of-the-range, blockbusting, Privada (Oddbins, First Quench, Virgin, Tesco, £10.99).
Terrazas Alto Malbec 2000 (Unwins, £5.99). The 2000 vintage was tough for many Argentine winemakers who witnessed torrential rain, hail and hefty damage to vines. But many picked early to prevent dilution of the wines, and did well. Terrazas, part of Mo?t et Chandon, made some startling wines, this being one of them. It's a mid-weight red with intense plum-and-raisin aromas and morello cherry flavours. Ideal with 'meaty' fish, chicken and pasta. This is just one excellent Argentine Malbec, a grape which must surely prove the nation's strong suit.
Rio de Plata Torrontes/Chardonnay 2000 (Morrisons, Southern Co-op, £3.79). Grown in some of the highest vineyards in the world in Cafayate by Etchart, Torrontes is a white Argentinian grape which can divide a dinner party between the 'yummy' and the 'yuk'. Mixed with Chardonnay, it's softer and more subtle but still retains those vibrant, sweet-shop flavours. If you like it, it'll be great value. If you don't, spit it out and head elsewhere.
