Willy Wonka chef is best

James Mills|Daily Mail10 April 2012

Creations such as snail porridge and bacon and egg ice cream may not be to everyone's taste.

But such unusual dishes have enabled Heston Blumenthal to transform a pub bistro into the best restaurant in Europe.

The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, has won the accolade in a vote by 300 of the world's leading chefs and food critics.

It was named second best in the world in the Restaurant Magazine poll, beaten only by the renowned French Laundry in California.

Self-taught chef Mr Blumenthal, 37, opened his restaurant in a converted 450-year-old pub nine years ago. Originally a simple bistro, it served traditional French provincial dishes. But Mr Blumenthal soon threw out the rulebook and began experimenting.

However, he is modest about his originality. Asked once if he was leading a revolution, he shrugged and replied: 'I think Willy Wonka

was the trailblazer.' In February, the Fat Duck became only the third restaurant in the country to be awarded a third Michelin star.

It joined Gordon Ramsay's eponymous restaurant in Chelsea - which was named eighth at this week's top 50 award ceremony in London - and French chef Michel Roux's The Waterside Inn, also in Bray, which was voted 15th best.

The world's top ten are: 1 French Laundry, Yountville, California; 2 The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire; 3 El Bulli, Montjoi, Spain; 4 L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Paris; 5 Pierre Gagnaire, Paris; 6 Guy Savoy, Paris; 7 Nobu, London; 8 Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London; 9 Michel Bras, Laguiole, France; 10 Louis XV, Monaco.

Other UK restaurants in the top 50 are: St John, London (16); Le Gavroche, London (19); The Merchant House, Ludlow, Shropshire (21); The Ivy, London (24); Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, Oxfordshire (30); River Cafe, London (41); The Wolseley, London (49). The Fat Duck was also named best newcomer.

Mr Blumenthal, who was born in London but grew up near Bray, left school with one A-level. After just one week's work experience at Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, he quit and decided

to teach himself. The Fat Duck, which has a turnover of £ 1.2million, charges £60 a head for a three-course meal from the â¡ la carte menu. Food critic Egon Ronay once declared Mr Blumenthal to be 'by far the most original and innovative chef I have come across'. Not all agree. Chef Nico Ladenis has said: 'Someone who makes egg and bacon ice cream is hailed as a genius. If you vomit and make ice cream out of it, are you a star?'

And Mr Blumenthal still has to convince his biggest critics of all. His three children apparently prefer their mother's cooking. At Gordon Ramsay's Petrus restaurant, meanwhile, a diner has spent £42,000 on a meal for himself and six friends.

Only about £500 is thought to have gone on the food. The remaining £41,500 paid for bottles of expensive wine, possibly including the famous £12,300-a-bottle 1947 Chateau Petrus Pomerol, from which the London restaurant takes its name.

Mr Ramsay, 37, was yesterday reluctant to name the diner, but said: 'I hope he's back.'

Head waiter Jean Pierre said: 'The customer loves the restaurant. He comes every six months.'

In 2001, six financiers famously spent £44,007 at Petrus to celebrate a huge bonds coup.

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