This resto has a respected butcher as a consultant

10 April 2012

Rather than getting fancy, purveyors of hamburgers should get real, because with some dishes simpler is always better, and one of those dishes is the hamburger.

Everything starts with decent meat and at Hamburger Union they take their meat very seriously indeed.

The meat comes from organic and free-range herds and is properly hung; the burgers are freshly made on the premises.

The restaurant occupies two shop fronts: the one on the left is the takeaway part of the operation and also where you order, pay and then go on through to the very modernist dining room.

You take a ticket with you and pop it into the metal stand on your table, so that the waitress can find you when your drinks are ready and your meal is cooked.

The menu is short.

There are burgers, cheeseburgers, bacon cheeseburgers, some veggie options, and a notable fillet steak Adherents to the low-carb cult can have their burger 'protein style', which means that the kitchen replaces the bun with a couple of lettuce leaves.

The straightforward burger is very good - juicy, and on an Italian-style bun, it is cooked as requested and comes with some red onion, mayo and lettuce.

The chips are described on the menu as 'proper chips, never frozen' and that is what they are.

There are reasonably priced drinks and a suitably sticky and unctuous malted milk.

'Cocktail shakes' - Baileys, Tia Maria or crème de menthe - are a bit more puzzling and probably best left to experts.

Hamburger Union
4-6 Garrick Street, WC2 9BH

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