Take tikka away! UK needs a new national dish, says Anthony Bourdain

The American said there are few identifiably British options apart from fish and chips
Past its sell-by date? chef Anthony Bourdain says Britain needs to find a national dish other than chicken tikka masala

Chef Anthony Bourdain says Britain needs a new national dish after Brexit — and chicken tikka masala will no longer do.

The American has travelled the world seeking dishes for his latest televised venture, opening a street food market in New York.

He said that London cherrypicks other nations for its street food, but there are few identifiably British options apart from fish and chips.

Chicken tikka masala became known as the country’s national dish following a speech by Robin Cook, then foreign secretary, in 2001. He said: “Chicken tikka masala is now a true British national dish, not only because it is the most popular, but because it is a perfect illustration of the way Britain absorbs and adapts external influences.”

Strong opinion: Bourdain says London doesn't have a street food culture
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Bourdain, 61, told the Standard: “I don’t think of London as having a street food culture. It has fish and chips and bacon butties but the national dish is chicken tikka masala for goodness’ sake. Something has to be done about that.” But he praised the capital’s chefs for always trying to improve. “London is a great city to eat in, getting better every year it has hundreds of terrific restaurants,” he said. “I love going there and seeing friends and just hanging out.”

Bourdain was speaking at the World Street Food Congress in Manila, which is being held to celebrate the heritage of street food vendors.

He said trying cuisine from other countries was a good way to embrace the rest of the world. “It can’t hurt to celebrate different food cultures,” he said. “The more enlightened young people who understand the world is a big place full of different flavours — you never know it could make a difference when voting next comes around.”

Saturday Kitchen chef Peter Lloyd, whose restaurant Sticky Mango in Waterloo made it to number one on TripAdvisor last year, was also at the event, hosted by Asian food culture company Makansutra and the Philippines tourist board. He said: “It’s great to learn how the best chefs cook their delicacy because they have been doing it for generations.”

The Philippines is trying to rebrand itself as a gastronomical hotspot to rival Vietnam, Thailand and Singapore in south-east Asia.

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