Sunday Roasts in London: Tredwell’s from Marcus Wareing

Duck-fat roast potatoes and comforting puds make this a proudly British roast, says David Ellis
Plush enough to impress: Tredwell's is much more relaxed than Marcus Wareing's other restaurants, but remains elegant
David Ellis @dvh_ellis20 November 2015

When it first opened, Tredwell's got a bit of a rubbing. Happily, it seems to have ironed out its problems and have launched a proudly British Sunday offering with all the trimmings.

The main event: Things are kept nicely simple here: a traditional roast, as either two or three courses.

We were offered a choice of roasts: chicken, slow-cooked pork belly – worth it alone for the exquisite crab apple side – or lamb rump cap. Irritatingly, given the narrow range, the lamb is plated up with a £3 surcharge. All come with huge Yorkshire puddings, roasted carrots, kale with bacon and roasted garlic, and gravy (of which you’ll likely want a top up). The duck-fat roasted potatoes manage the crisp/fluffy ideal, even if they won’t quite shake any belief that mums’s are always best. Vegetarians are catered for, though you’ll need to call ahead.

The rest: Begin with a cocktail – we’re going back for another Tredwell’s Negroni (gin, antica formula, Aperol, peach & grapefruit bitters).

From there, starters are a must: the braised oxtail ravioli with celeriac and baked potato mousse struck a fine balance between the beefy (ox-y?) heartiness and the cleanse of the celeriac.

Puddings are childhood favourites: warm ginger cake with banana cream, caramel sauce and a Mr-Whippy-esque salted caramel concoction feels like a home comfort. Almond cake with plum and cream cheese frosting inspired the sort of warm, pleasurable shivers of an favourite old jumper. Avoid the cheese board: another surcharge (£4, the cheeky so-and-sos), and little to show for the splurge.

Options: Tredwell's offer three roasts each week, which change regularly. Roast beef is pictured above

Where is it? Tredwell’s three floors sit moments from Leicester Square and Covent Garden underground stations, opposite Dishoom. Look out for it: althought it seems absurd to say any restaurant in the centre of town could go unnoticed, Tredwell’s suffers from an unassuming, plain frontage.

Who’s behind it? Marcus Wareing restaurants, who are also behind twice Michelin-starred Marcus at the Berkeley Hotel (where the Masterchef judge cooks) and the ever-impressive Gilbert Scott at St Pancras. This isn’t quite the same as their other offerings, being a much more relaxed affair. The food is simpler and more casual, though the plush green booths, dark woods white tiled walls are upmarket enough to impress.

The best Sunday roasts in London

1/28

When can I try it? Sundays (naturally), 12pm – 4pm

Cheque out: Two courses £24, three courses £27.

Info: 4a Upper St Martin's Lane, WC2H 9NYM, 020 3764 0840, tredwells.com

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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