Shell out for the oysters

Stick to the oysters at The Wright Brothers Oysters and Porter House.

What do you want first? Good news or bad news? In timehonoured tradition, I'll start with the downside of this new addition to Borough Market's gastro-pornographic empire.

A whole lobster for 30 quid is par for the course in expensive London. But when said lobster is the size of a langoustine and features mealy, cotton-woolly meat, you can't help but feel massively ripped off.

Beef and oyster pie, where pastry languishes some centimetres away from its filling of gristly, badly trimmed and tough meat is nobody's idea of a good dinner, even with three shimmering oysters slipped under its perfunctory crust.

Salad, a handful of underdressed, uninteresting leaves, costs £3.50. And in this neighbourhood, how can you get bread - a few staleish slices of unexceptional loaf, for which extra was charged - so badly wrong?

The good news is that the oysters are sensational - as they should be, given the owners supply them to the restaurant industry. Super-fresh natives were plump hymns to the sea; scallops, too, were bursting with sweet nuttiness (not sure about their cheesy Hollandaise topping, though).

And the place looks great, like a classic English oyster bar with added touches of northern France. Stick to the oysters and this is a winner. Otherwise, avoid.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £95. 11 Stoney Street SE1. Tel: 020 7403 9554. Tube: London Bridge

Wright Bros Oyster House
Stoney Street, London, SE1 9AD

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