Fay Maschler's week in food: from lunch at The Ritz to an eerily fine dish of crab and haddock

1. A phenomenal lunch at The Ritz includes agnolotti with fresh black truffles, pressed duck and Mont Blanc. Why still no Michelin stars for chef John Williams and his talented team?

2. Ian Pengelley says he’s got his mojo back at The House of Ho in Percy Street. Well, lemongrass chicken, chicken scratchings and caramel glaze was almost spellbinding.

3. Sunday lunch at The Goring with the venerable American food critic Mimi Sheraton. She goes full British with potted shrimps, roast sirloin and Christmas pudding. Lacking her amazing stamina I have smoked eel and chanterelles risotto.

4. Staying with Reg’s daughter Amy and her family in Oxfordshire, a terrific chicken pie (thighs only) with golden flaky pastry. Amy’s advice: Tamasin Day-Lewis’s The Art of the Tart for pastry recipes.

5. From William Gleave at P Franco, E5, an eerily fine dish of crab, smoked haddock and “Le Coste” olive oil.

Hungry for more? See our pick of the best food in London

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