Delusions of grandeur

Oh, it sounded so good. A contemporary Indian restaurant headed by a chef from the luxury Delhi-based Oberoi Group.

A menu that read, with its venison and rabbit and wild boar, like one from the palace of a game-loving Rajput potentate. Some dreamy-sounding cocktails.

But, lordy, they couldn't have got it much more wrong. This is a gaff with major delusions of grandeur but little substance.

We got amuse-bouches but the dry little potato patties did not entertain. Our waitress was knowledgeable but verged on bossiness. Every plate is elaborately bedecked with flourishes and garnishes but food is poor.

Rack of lamb featured weaselly chops left so long in their marinade they had become furry. They came on a mulchy bed of something-or-other that included sultanas. And a strip of tinfoil.

Worryingly fishy, untrimmed scallops tasted as though their cashew and coconut sauce contained non-split, catering faux cream. A wild boar curry featured a masala which tasted uncooked, as if the spice-mix had been added as an afterthought, plus fatty, gristly, muttony (not porky) meat. We left most of it without a question asked. Weirdly, the bread - paratha and nan - was simply magnificent.

Hara wants to 'give our guests a lasting impression that will change the perception of Indian food forever'. Well, they got that one right.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £70. 13-15 The Circle, Queen Elizabeth Street SE1. Tel: 0845 226 9411. www.hararara.co.uk. Tube: London Bridge

Hara
13-15 The Circle, Queen Elizabeth Street, SE1