D.K. Monty's

This review was first published in November 2000

Mention the name Monty's to any West London curry lover and they are likely to respond with a knowing nod. But establishing exactly where their loyalties lie is a more difficult matter. There are Monty's (each using a broadly similar logo) in Kingston upon Thames, Fulham, Dublin, the Mall by Ealing Broadway, South Ealing Road, Northfields Avenue and Ealing High Street. Untangling this lot is a nightmare, but here goes.

In the 1970s three chefs left the Ealing Tandoori to go it alone, and over the years they set up Monty's restaurants in South Ealing Road, Northfields Avenue, and at the Mall. They may have all used the same name, but they are different businesses. There are good relations between South Ealing Road and Northfields, but the proprietor at the Mall is keen to be seen as wholly independent. Thus, when the Northfields contingent opened a new restaurant during the summer (called Monty's, naturally) and in the Broadway Shopping Centre, for legal reasons it has ended up being called D.K. MONTY'S and "This restaurant is not associated with Monty's in the Mall" is printed on the menus for all to see. So much for feuding, as a long time Monty's customer - and one who ranks the Northfields Avenue Monty's as number one - it is a pleasure to welcome such a good new Monty's to the fold.

D.K. Monty's is a curry house. It may have an elegant, modern-looking dining room complete with comfortable chairs and large mirrors used to make a long narrow interior appear spacious; the staff may be patient and efficient rather than abrupt; but it is still a curry house. Nepalese cuisine may get top billing on the menu, and there may be some interesting Nepalese dishes to be had, but this restaurant's strengths are good, freshly cooked food, huge portions, moderate prices, and prompt service. Things have not got out of hand at Monty's. There are old-style, simple, well-made curries to be had - meat Madras, comes with a rich, tomato tangy, chilli hot, sauce and plenty of meat; fresh tasting and well seasoned; there's methi gosht; lamb badam pasanda.

The tandoor work is good, chicken tikka comes on a sizzler. You get a large portion, well-flavoured and quite unlike the dried-out offerings available elsewhere. Tandoori king prawns are an extravagance costing nearly £2 each - you get half a dozen very big prawns, but they have been cleverly marinated and are worth every penny.

Try the Nepalese specials - Kathmandu dal is a terrific dish made with black lentils (although sometimes the chefs lapse into mixed lentils) spiked with ginger, chillies and cumin; the Ghurkhali dal is a similar dish but made with a good deal of garlic. Try the Nepalese murgh masala, and insist on having it on the bone which is the key to good gravy - a delicious rich dish.

The Khatmandu aloo is a revelation - ordering it brings a huge platter of potatoes fried with cumin and spices, a kind of turbo-charged pommes Lyonnaise and improbably delicious. Whoever, and wherever your favourite Monty's may be, his cousin D.K. Monty's is worth looking up.

D.K. Monty's
Unit 4, Ealing Broadway Centre, 11 High Street, W5