Travel around Spain in five mouth-watering wines

Abbie Moulton picks five distinct bottles that will transport your taste buds across the lesser known wine-growing regions of Spain
Txakoli Vineyards in Getaria, Spain
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Abbie Moulton7 June 2018

Spain is a region that, in spite of its size and commercial heft - as the third biggest wine producing country in the world, outweighed only by France and Italy - still manages to seep under the radar when in it comes to areas of interest.

With millions of bottles pouring out of the country every year, its image is perhaps one of quantity over quality, as we think of Spanish wines as merrily propping up the value section of supermarket shelves and wine lists. With sunny climes and easy grape-growing conditions, Spain is all too often counted upon for ‘reliability’ and ‘predictability’, producing simple, inoffensive whites and the ever ubiquitous oaky Rioja. Or, at the other end of the spectrum, home to prohibitively expensive wines such as the renowned Vega Sicilia, known to fetch upwards of £1,000 a bottle...

But delve deeper and Spain has loads more to offer, with astounding diversity across a hotbed of underrated regions. A modern wave of producers are bringing forth lighter, terroir-driven styles that speak of the land from which they’re grown - mouthwatering, zesty whites from the lush green coasts of Galicia, characterful Mediterranean wines, and the savoury sherries of Jerez join obscure wines from the volcanic soils of the Canary Islands. Spain is alive with vibrant expressions of each corner of the country.

Drink up: Abbie Moulton on Spain's lesser known wine regions

So, join me on a liquid tour with these five wines:

Godello from Galicia

Galicia, in the very north west corner of Spain, is cooled by the breath of the Atlantic, leaving it leafier, greener and a few degrees crisper than the rest of the country, and with wines of a characteristic freshness. The terse, white Albariños of Galicia’s most famous subregion, Rias Baixas, have long been popular on wine lists, but the Godello grape is a contender for producing Spain’s most noteworthy whites - rich, textured and expressive.

The red Mencía is also worth a sip - this native variety from the steep hills of the region is elegant and perfumed - with the best coming from neighbouring Bierzo, an ancient region, once forgotten, that’s now something of a rising star. Try Bodegas Mengoba Brezo Blanco Godello, or the red Brezo Tinto Mencía - winemaker Gregory Perez is an unsung hero, making terroir-driven low intervention wines at great value prices.

Buy from Les Caves des Pyrene. Bodegas Mengoba Brezo Blanco, £13.50. Bodegas Mengoba, Brezo Tinto, £11.95

Txakoli from the Basque Country

This crisp, lightly spritzy wine from the coastal regions of northern Spain’s Basque country is a staple in the seaside cafes of Bilbao and San Sebastian, where it’s famously poured from theatrically great height to enliven the bubbles. Made from the local Hondarrabi Zuri grape, Txakoli (say it with me, cha-koh-lee), in its distinguishable tall green bottle, is typically effervescent with tart green apple notes, is easy on the alcohol, and all too drinkable.

A simple, smashable wine, made to drink while unwinding in the Spanish sun - or for reminiscing of the sun from the more temperamental climates of Blighty - and not for taking too seriously. Try Txakoli 2016 Gaintza for a clean, aromatic and bright example with delicate apple and citrus.

Buy from Valvona & Crolla, £12.99

Xarel.Lo from Catalunya

The warm Mediterranean coast of Spain is famed for production of hulking red Priorat and sparkling Cava, but some excellent unusual bottles are appearing. Xarel.Lo, one of the three grapes that makes up the recipe of Cava and not often found on its own, has in recent years risen to stardom - thanks to experimentation by a new wave of producers bringing it to light with great results.

Josep Mitjans is one such producer, coaxing an aromatic and honeyed wine from the high altitude vineyards of Penedès. His wines are made in the ‘skin contact’ style and aged underground in clay amphorae - try the Loxarel Xarel·lo Àmfora, for a sip that’s a little wild, with honey, quince and rich nutty aromas.

Buy from Highbury Vintners, £19

Sherry from Jerez, Andalucia

The bodegas of Jerez are filled with solera-style barrels where sherry wines age and breathe, licked by the salt of the ocean. The Spanish fortified wine is a food lover’s best friend; bone-dry fino is incredibly versatile and works with a wide range of flavours, from typical Spanish salted snacks like olives and cured meats, to seafood, as well as being pretty damn glorious on its own.

Try it served very chilled in a white wine glass on a warm day for a delicious aperitif and see if you won’t be converted. En Rama style fino (and manzanilla) is the traditional, pre-technological, unfiltered or only-very-lightly-filtered style that’s enjoying a resurrection, for its depth and slight artisanal inconsistencies.

Try González Byass 2018 Tio Pepe En Rama for intense savoury notes, baked apple and signature saline saltiness.

Buy from Lea & Sandeman, £8.95

Listán Blanco from the Canary Islands

The oldest vines in Europe are often found in the most surprising places - high up in the mountains of Switzerland, say, or on a hot, humid, island, a stone’s throw from the coast of Morocco. That’s where we are with the Canary Islands, where winemaking dates back over five hundred years. There’s a surprisingly rich culture of winemaking here, and no fewer than 10 recognised wine producing regions. Tenerife is the main act, where rugged, volcanic soils produce wines with an impressive mineral streak and the mountains provide altitude for cooling, acidity-enhancing conditions.

Native varieties flourish here, thanks to years of existence uninterrupted by the pesky phylloxera bug that wiped out so much of Europe’s original vines. You’ll find oddities such as Listan Blanco, Listan Negro, Marmajuelo and Baboso, and some ‘international’ varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Try Envinate Taganan Blanco, a field blend of indigenous varieties that includes Listan Blanco, Albillo Criollo, Marmajuelo, Gual, among others. Hand-picked grapes, free from chemicals, are traditionally aged in huge oak barrels and bottled with minimal sulfur, for a compelling, smoke and salt-laced wine.

Buy from Highbury Vintners, £25

Abbie Moulton is ES Lifestyle's wine and drink columnist. Follow her @abbiemoulton

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